Maboneng is the other side of Johannesburg, the one that looks forward rather than back. Its name means ‘place of light’ in Sotho, and it’s a regenerated stretch of the old industrial east of downtown, rebuilt around galleries, artist studios, street art and food. After the polished safety of Sandton and the weight of the history museums, it’s where you see what young Joburg is actually making.
The heart of it is Fox Street and Arts on Main. Murals cover whole building facades, galleries and studios fill the old warehouses, and cafés and rooftop bars line the strip. On Sundays, Market on Main brings food and design stalls into the Arts on Main complex from mid-morning to mid-afternoon, and the precinct is at its busiest and best. The regeneration has had its ups and downs over the years, but Maboneng has held on as the city’s creative anchor.
It also opens a door to the wider inner city, which most visitors skip. Newtown has Museum Africa and Mary Fitzgerald Square, Braamfontein has its bars, galleries and Saturday market, and the Ponte City tower stands over Hillbrow as a landmark of the old high-rise city. These are best seen by day and with a local guide, who makes them both safer and far more interesting. Come on a Sunday, keep your wits about you on the surrounding streets, and use Uber to arrive and leave.