Constitution Hill is the rare place that holds both South Africa’s worst history and its best idea. For about a hundred years this was a prison, and one of the most feared in the country. Today the same ground is home to the Constitutional Court, the highest court for rights in the land, and you walk from one to the other on a single visit.
The prison complex is the first half. The Old Fort, the brutal Number Four section for black male prisoners, the Women’s Jail and the Awaiting Trial Block held Mahatma Gandhi and Nelson Mandela, alongside tens of thousands of ordinary people, many locked up simply for breaking the pass laws. A guide walks you through the cells, the isolation blocks and the courtyards, and the stories that go with them.
The second half is the answer to the first. On the site of the demolished Awaiting Trial Block, built partly from its own bricks, stands the Constitutional Court, with its chamber, its art collection and the Flame of Democracy. Putting the country’s highest court for human rights on the ground of an apartheid prison is the whole point. It sits in central Johannesburg between Braamfontein and Hillbrow, an easy Uber from the northern suburbs, and it pairs naturally with the Apartheid Museum, which lays out the system the court was built to undo.