The Apartheid Museum is the clearest account of apartheid anywhere, and the right place to begin a trip to Johannesburg. It tells the story of how a system of racial segregation was built, enforced and finally dismantled, through film, photographs, documents and the testimony of the people who lived it.
The point is made the moment you arrive. Your ticket assigns you at random to a ‘white’ or ‘non-white’ entrance, and you go in through separate gates, a small taste of the classification that ran every life under apartheid. From there a one-way route leads through the race laws, the pass system, the forced removals and the resistance, into the states of emergency and the long road to the vote. The Nelson Mandela exhibition and the Desmond Tutu ‘Truth to Power’ exhibition carry it through to democracy and the Truth and Reconciliation Commission.
It asks a lot of you. Allow two to three hours, take the included audio tour, and pace yourself, because the material is heavy and meant to be. The museum advises against children under 11. It sits in Ormonde, next to Gold Reef City, an easy Uber from the northern suburbs, and it pairs naturally with Constitution Hill and a guided morning in Soweto, which together complete the story.