Sodwana Bay is the diving capital of South Africa, and the wild edge of Zululand. It lies far up the Maputaland coast in the north of KwaZulu-Natal, inside the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, a long drive of four to five hours from Durban that ends at a string of dive camps behind the dunes. People come here for one thing above all: the reefs offshore are the southernmost coral reefs in Africa, and some of the best diving on the continent.
The reefs are named by their distance up the beach. Boats launch straight through the surf, an exciting start in itself, and run out to the shallow 2 Mile, where beginners and courses go, the richer 5 Mile and 7 Mile, and the deeper 9 Mile for experienced divers. The warm Mozambique Current keeps the water clear and full of life: more than 1,200 species of fish and coral, turtles and rays year-round, ragged-tooth sharks in winter, whale sharks and whales in season, and, in the deep canyons far below, the living coelacanths that divers have found here.
You don’t have to dive to enjoy it, though the diving is the point. Non-divers snorkel the sheltered shallows off Jesser Point, walk the long empty beach, or take a ski-boat out for fishing or whales, and from November to March guided night tours follow nesting turtles up the sand. It’s a dedicated water destination rather than a Big Five park, the roads in are sandy but the camps handle the transfers, and like all of northern Zululand it carries a low malaria risk, so take the usual precautions.