Hluhluwe-iMfolozi is the safari you can reach by road from the beach, and one of the most storied reserves in Africa. It lies in the green hills of Zululand, in northern KwaZulu-Natal, about two and a half hours up from Durban, and it is the oldest proclaimed game reserve on the continent, set aside in 1895. Two sections make up its roughly 96,000 hectares: hilly, forested Hluhluwe in the north, and the flatter, wilder iMfolozi in the south, joined by a corridor of bush.
It is, above all, the home of the rhino. When the reserve was proclaimed, the southern white rhino had been hunted to the edge of extinction, and it was here, through the work that became Operation Rhino in the 1950s and 60s, that the species was brought back: every southern white rhino alive today descends from this corner of Zululand. You can still see them here as well as almost anywhere, white and black both, alongside the rest of the Big Five in country that ranges from thick hillside forest to open valley grassland.
There are two ways to take it in. Most visitors come for the game drive, self-driving the good road network in a normal car or going out with a ranger who reads the bush, and a day or two does the reserve justice. The other is on foot: the iMfolozi wilderness is the birthplace of the guided walking trail, and a ranger-led walk through roadless country, sleeping out under the stars on the longer routes, is as deep an encounter with the wild as South Africa offers. Northern Zululand carries a low malaria risk, so take the usual precautions, aim for the dry winter for the easiest game, and book your drives, walks and camps well ahead.