iSimangaliso is the place where the bush runs down to the sea, and the easiest wild day in Zululand. The park spreads along the east coast of northern KwaZulu-Natal for some 220 kilometres, from the village of St Lucia at the estuary mouth all the way north towards Mozambique, and it was South Africa’s first World Heritage Site, listed in 1999. Its name means “a miracle and a wonder” in Zulu, and across more than 3,200 square kilometres of lake, wetland, dune forest and ocean it earns it.
The heart of it is the St Lucia estuary, the largest estuarine system in Africa, where Lake St Lucia opens to the sea. Its waters hold large numbers of hippos and Nile crocodiles, and the classic outing is a boat cruise that drifts among them, with pelicans, fish eagles and kingfishers along the banks. The hippos are so at home here that they walk the streets of the village at night, grazing the verges, which is the one reason to take real care after dark.
Beyond the water, the park keeps giving. The Eastern Shores loop runs from the village through grassland and tall dune forest, with buffalo, zebra and the chance of elephant or rhino, viewpoints at Mission Rocks, and a road that ends at Cape Vidal, a wild beach for swimming and snorkelling with whales passing offshore in winter and turtles nesting in summer. Base yourself in St Lucia, give it a day on the water and a day in the park, and take the usual low-risk malaria precautions while you do.