Zululand is the easy safari, the one you reach by road from Durban rather than by a flight to a bush airstrip. In a few hours up the coast and into the hills of northern KwaZulu-Natal, you swap the warm Indian Ocean for Big Five country, wetlands and some of the wildest beaches in the country, all in a compact corner that rewards a few unhurried days.
At its heart is Hluhluwe-iMfolozi, the oldest game reserve in Africa, proclaimed in 1895, and the place that saved the white rhino from extinction: every southern white rhino alive today traces back to here. Alongside it lies iSimangaliso, a World Heritage wetland where hippos and crocodiles share the St Lucia estuary and walk the village streets after dark, and where the lakes, dune forest and beaches run unbroken to the sea.
The further north you go, the wilder it gets. Cape Vidal has a turtle-nesting beach inside the park, Sodwana Bay has the southernmost coral reefs in Africa and the country’s best diving, and the private reserve of Phinda offers the closest, most polished safari of all. Northern Zululand is a low-risk malaria area, so take the usual precautions, and time the winter for the easiest game and the summer for the turtles and the reefs.