Paarl is the biggest of the three Winelands towns and the most down-to-earth, a working place set in the broad Drakenstein valley about 45 minutes from Cape Town. It takes its name, the Afrikaans word for ‘pearl’, from the giant granite domes of Paarl Rock that rise over the town and shine after rain. Founded in 1687, it has the longest main street in the country, oak-lined and stacked with Cape Dutch and Victorian buildings.
The wine here runs to big names. KWV, the old cooperative, pours wine and brandy in its grand cellar, and Fairview is a favourite for its cheese, its wines and the goat tower that everyone photographs, with the Spice Route farm right next door. A short drive south at Simondium, Babylonstoren is the area’s showpiece, a celebrated formal garden wrapped around a working farm, a farm-to-table restaurant and its own label.
Above the vines, Paarl Mountain and its nature reserve give you the granite domes up close and walks among them, with the tall Afrikaans Language Monument on the slope and long views over the valley. There’s history in the valley too: it was at the nearby Drakenstein prison, then Victor Verster, that Nelson Mandela walked free in 1990. Paarl is more practical base than postcard, and it pairs easily with Stellenbosch and Franschhoek on a single Winelands day, as long as nobody has to drink and drive.