Oudtshoorn is the Garden Route’s detour inland, and a complete change of scene. An hour over the Outeniqua mountains from the coast, the green of the route gives way to the dry, hot Little Karoo, a half-desert of scrubby plains under big skies. It earns the turn-off for two things above all: the caves and the ostriches.
The Cango Caves are the headline. Thirty kilometres north of town, in the foothills of the Swartberg, a series of limestone chambers runs deep into the rock. The Heritage tour is an easy hour through the lit show halls; the Adventure tour pushes on through the tight squeezes of the deeper passages, which rules it out for anyone with claustrophobia or a larger frame. Either way, book the one you want before you go.
The town itself is built on ostriches. Oudtshoorn boomed in the Victorian feather trade, and the grand “feather palaces” still stand from it. Ostrich farms run tours and feeding, and many have sensibly dropped the old rides on welfare grounds. The Cango Wildlife Ranch works with cheetahs and crocodiles in town, the gravel Swartberg Pass climbs over the mountains to Prince Albert as one of the country’s great drives, and the dry night air gives some of the clearest stargazing anywhere. It works as a long day trip from George or Wilderness, or a night for those who want the pass and the stars.