Knysna is the green heart of the Garden Route, the place most people slow down for. It’s built around a tidal lagoon that opens to the sea through a narrow gap between two sandstone cliffs, the Heads, and the whole town runs at the lagoon’s pace: oyster bars, boat cruises and indigenous forest within easy reach.
The water is the draw. A cruise across the lagoon to the Heads, with oysters and a glass of white wine on deck, is the thing to do here, and the Thesen Islands and waterfront have the bars and restaurants for afterwards. Knysna grows its own oysters, wild and farmed, and serves them cheaper and fresher than almost anywhere. For the view, drive out to the Eastern Head, where the sea forces through the gap below the lookout.
There’s more to it than the lagoon. The Western Head is the Featherbed Nature Reserve, a private cliff reached only by ferry and walked with a guide, and the indigenous Knysna forest spreads inland with shady trails like the Garden of Eden. Knysna sits midway along the route, so it makes a relaxed two-night base, with Wilderness and its lakes to the west and Plettenberg Bay and its beaches to the east, both within half an hour.