Gansbaai is the Whale Coast’s adventure town, a working fishing port 40 minutes east of Hermanus that made its name on sharks. Just offshore lies Dyer Island and, beside it, Geyser Rock, home to a Cape fur seal colony tens of thousands strong. The channel between them, Shark Alley, is where the boats go, and for years it was the most reliable place on earth to see a great white.
That picture has changed. In recent years great whites have grown scarce at Gansbaai, pushed out in large part by orcas hunting them along this coast, and the sharks most trips now encounter are bronze whalers, the so-called copper sharks. They’re impressive in their own right and often turn up in numbers, but it’s worth going in clear-eyed: book a cage dive here for the experience and the marine life, not for a guaranteed great white. The dive itself is optional, and many people simply watch from the deck.
There’s far more in the water than the sharks. Boats run a ‘marine Big Five’ of whales in season, seals, African penguins and dolphins, a gentler outing that suits families. On land, De Kelders just to the west is a fine spot for watching whales from the shore, and the Grootbos fynbos reserve nearby is a destination of its own. Whatever you book, watch the weather, because rough seas off Dyer Island cancel boats at short notice, so leave yourself a spare day.