Betty’s Bay is a small coastal village on the Whale Coast, set in the fynbos of the Kogelberg between Cape Town and Hermanus, and its main draw is one of the rarest things to find on the African mainland: a breeding colony of penguins. At Stony Point, a boardwalk runs right over the birds, which nest among the rocks and the bush within touching distance of the path, though touching is exactly what you don’t do.
The African penguin is now classed as critically endangered, its numbers down sharply over the last century, so Stony Point is both a delight and a place to tread lightly. Keep to the boardwalk, give the penguins room and never feed them; they’re wild, and they can bite hard. Four species of cormorant breed here as well, dassies sun themselves on the rocks, and the rusting try-pots of an old whaling station are a reminder of what this coast once did to its wildlife.
There’s an easy hour or two to make of it. The Harold Porter National Botanical Garden in the village protects a patch of Kogelberg fynbos, with short trails to a waterfall, and the whole stretch is strung along Clarence Drive, the cliff-edge R44 that is one of the country’s great coast roads. Most people pass through on the way between Cape Town and Hermanus, with whales offshore in season, but Betty’s Bay is worth slowing down for.