The Whale Coast is the stretch of the Overberg shore east of Cape Town where, for half the year, the sea is full of whales. From June to November, southern right whales come into the bays to calve and mate, often within a stone’s throw of the rocks, and Hermanus has built itself around watching them. It’s one of the best places in the world to see whales from dry land, no boat required.
Hermanus is the hub, a clifftop town with a path that runs for kilometres above Walker Bay and a ‘whale crier’ who blows a kelp horn when there’s something to see. East along the coast, Gansbaai is the other half of the marine story: the ‘great white capital’, where boats run out to cage dive with sharks and to spot the ‘marine Big Five’ of whales, sharks, seals, penguins and dolphins. West, at Stony Point in Betty’s Bay, a boardwalk runs over one of the mainland’s few African penguin colonies.
There’s more once you turn the corner. Cape Agulhas, the true southernmost tip of Africa, is where the Atlantic and Indian oceans officially meet, marked by a lighthouse, a cairn and an old shipwreck on the rocks. Further east, the De Hoop Nature Reserve protects a wild coast of white dunes and fynbos and one of the best shore whale nurseries in the country. Inland, the cool Hemel-en-Aarde valley turns out some of South Africa’s best Pinot Noir. Most people come from Cape Town for a couple of days, but the coast rewards a slower trip.