Cape Vidal is the rare wild beach you can actually swim at, hidden inside the iSimangaliso Wetland Park on the Eastern Shores. It lies about thirty-two kilometres and forty-five minutes north of St Lucia, reached by driving through the park’s grassland and tall dune forest, so the beach comes as the reward at the end of a small safari rather than off a coast road. A rocky point shelters the bay from the open swell, which leaves the water calm and safe, and a reef close to shore turns the snorkelling into a walk-in affair.
Getting there is part of the pleasure. Day visitors enter at the Bhangazi gate near St Lucia and cross the Eastern Shores, where buffalo, zebra, kudu and reedbuck graze the grassland and the road climbs to the Mission Rocks viewpoint over the dunes and the sea. There are no shops at the beach, so you bring everything you need and carry it all out again, which is part of what keeps the place so unspoilt.
The sea sets the calendar. From June to November, humpback whales pass close offshore on their migration, often visible from the beach. From November to March, leatherback and loggerhead turtles haul up the sand at night to nest, and guided tours from St Lucia follow them responsibly in the dark. Stay over in the Ezemvelo cabins behind the dunes to have the place at dawn and dusk, take the usual low-risk malaria precautions, and Cape Vidal gives you one of the wildest, gentlest days on the whole South African coast.