The Drakensberg is South Africa’s great mountain range, a wall of basalt and golden grassland that runs for hundreds of kilometres down the border between KwaZulu-Natal and Lesotho. The Zulu call it uKhahlamba, the barrier of spears, and it holds the country’s highest peaks, its biggest cliffs and the richest collection of San rock art in Africa, all of which earned it a UNESCO World Heritage listing.
The mountains break into stretches. In the north, the Amphitheatre dominates Royal Natal National Park, a five-kilometre cliff with the Tugela Falls spilling down it, and the strenuous Sentinel hike with its chain ladders climbs to the top. The central Berg is the gentlest and most developed, with the Champagne Valley’s resorts below Champagne Castle and the trails of Cathedral Peak, while Giant’s Castle, a little south, is the place for San rock art and the rare bearded vulture. Right at the southern end, the Sani Pass switchbacks up a 4x4-only track into the highlands of Lesotho, with the ‘highest pub in Africa’ at the top.
You come here to walk, to look and to slow down. The hiking ranges from easy riverside strolls to hard summit days, and even the drives and viewpoints are worth the trip. The Berg is good year-round: green and stormy in summer, cold and crystal-clear in winter with snow on the peaks. Most people base themselves in the central valleys and day-trip to the rest, with Durban about three hours east and Johannesburg a similar drive to the north.