Umhlanga is the upscale, easygoing side of Durban, a beach suburb about 15 kilometres up the coast from the city centre. It’s where most visitors choose to stay: calmer and safer than the central beachfront, close to King Shaka airport, and lined with the best hotels and restaurants in greater Durban.
The heart of it is the seafront. A paved promenade runs along the dunes past the red-and-white lighthouse, the suburb’s landmark, which stands right on the beach by the grand old Oyster Box hotel. From there the Whalebone Pier reaches out over the surf, a favourite spot at sunrise. The beaches below are lifeguarded and shark-netted, and the warm Indian Ocean swims all year.
Off the sand, Umhlanga does the good life well. The Oyster Box curry buffet is a Durban institution, the seafront bistros are the city’s best, and the Gateway mall up on the ridge is one of the largest in the southern hemisphere, handy when the weather turns. North of the pier, the Umhlanga Lagoon Nature Reserve gives you a short, quiet boardwalk through coastal forest. As a base it’s hard to beat: stay here and day-trip into the city, the Valley of 1000 Hills or a Zululand safari.