Giant’s Castle is the part of the Drakensberg where the mountains’ oldest story is written on the rock. The reserve sits below the high peaks in the central Berg, near Estcourt, and while the hiking and the wildlife are reason enough to come, the real draw is the San rock art, some of the richest and best-preserved in all of Africa.
The San, the first people of these mountains, painted these shelters over thousands of years, in ochre and white, and the central panel at the Main Caves is one of the finest you can see. A guide walks you up from the camp and through the art, where eland move across the rock alongside hunters and the trance scenes of San belief. The eland, the largest antelope in the Berg, was sacred to the San and is the animal they painted most, and you’ll often see living herds of them grazing the grassland below the cliffs on the same visit.
There’s plenty more to fill a day or two. The grasslands hold other antelope along the Bushman’s River, the trails run up toward the high escarpment, and in winter a hide draws the bearded vulture, one of Africa’s rarest birds of prey, in to feed. The paintings are fragile and irreplaceable, so look but never touch, and book the vulture hide well ahead. Stay at the Ezemvelo camp and you’ll have the caves, the river and the trails on your doorstep.